WELCOME TO MY GALLERY

WHAT'S NEW IN THE GOWN GALLERY?

What do you get when you mix imported Chantilly Lace and dupion silk? Amanda. She came off the work table some two months back and I still salivate every time I get a glimpse of the luscious lace on this opulent background.



The lace drapes at the hip and is secured with two hand-rolled silk organza roses; the skirt is slightly flared with a tulle under structure.
Dupion is one of my favorite fabrics and its experiencing a comeback lately. It is elegant with a sheen and has a natural raw silk look and feel up close.
Amanda would be perfect for the less formal garden or cocktail wedding. Imagine a wide brimmed picture hat or small cocktail hat. A drop veil would change the look entirely. If you choose to go more formal, Amanda could be ordered with a built-in or detachable train. Or, as is with a cathedral style veil extending many feet beyond the hemline creating formality.
Want to see more options? Visit my new web pageshttp://amyjotatum.googlepages.com/
What do you get when you mix imported Chantilly Lace and dupion silk? Amanda. She came off the work table some two months back and I still salivate every time I get a glimpse of the luscious lace on this opulent background.



The lace drapes at the hip and is secured with two hand-rolled silk organza roses; the skirt is slightly flared with a tulle under structure.
Dupion is one of my favorite fabrics and its experiencing a comeback lately. It is elegant with a sheen and has a natural raw silk look and feel up close.
Amanda would be perfect for the less formal garden or cocktail wedding. Imagine a wide brimmed picture hat or small cocktail hat. A drop veil would change the look entirely. If you choose to go more formal, Amanda could be ordered with a built-in or detachable train. Or, as is with a cathedral style veil extending many feet beyond the hemline creating formality.
Want to see more options? Visit my new web pageshttp://amyjotatum.googlepages.com/
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WAISTLINES

Photo: Ron Greystar/All Rights Reserved
Think of your waistline as an intersection where bodice and skirt join to make your gown whole and complete. A waist is either defined by a horizontal seam or—in the case of a princess design—vertical seams running up the front. Waistline is a vital element; it brings balance to your silhouette and with careful utilization to this area, you can cover flaws or highlight your best features. You can drop, point, slant, blouse or curve, your waist to create the exact symmetry you want.

ejones photography/All Rights Reserved
Yoke-Believe it or not your waist in this case is higher than your bust. A yoke is a bib-like piece that is joined to either a bodice panel or gathering stitches. Check out any tent dress or princess style originating form a yoke. Both were popular circa 1960s.
Empire-Pictured above, it ends just below the bust line. Skirt can be straight or full. Chic now are princess or bias cut.
Raised-Recent trend popularized by Esprit.




Natural Waistline-Pictured above. Trendy once more, it seems like decades since we’ve seen so much of the natural waist. It is however one of fashion’s best-kept secrets. While not for everyone, it works for most body types and creates a great symmetry and overall picture of you.

Dropped-Pictured opposite, a dropped waist falls about 2-4 inches below the waist. Particularly flattering to most figure types because it elongates the torso
Asymmetrical-Falls at a diagonal. It can be either a fitted or relaxed bodice.
Basque-Falls into a point about 4-5 inches below the waist. Particularly flattering to full-figured and pear-shapes when it sits atop a full gathered skirt.
U-Most flattering U-shapes are over bodices that fall over an A-line skirt.
Princess Seams-No horizontal waist seam here. The vertical seams originate from armhole or shoulder and run the length of the dress.











Draped-Pictured at right, gathers or draping take the place of darts. Can take the shape of being loose or fitted.






Seamless-Pictured below, bias cut evening gowns and slip dresses have no seams defining waist. Usually snug fitting. As I’ve said before: you must be in top physical form to wear this waistline.

Photo: Ron Greystar/All Rights Reserved
Gowns: Amy-Jo Tatum Bridal Couture
Photo: Ron Greystar/All Rights Reserved
Think of your waistline as an intersection where bodice and skirt join to make your gown whole and complete. A waist is either defined by a horizontal seam or—in the case of a princess design—vertical seams running up the front. Waistline is a vital element; it brings balance to your silhouette and with careful utilization to this area, you can cover flaws or highlight your best features. You can drop, point, slant, blouse or curve, your waist to create the exact symmetry you want.

ejones photography/All Rights Reserved
Yoke-Believe it or not your waist in this case is higher than your bust. A yoke is a bib-like piece that is joined to either a bodice panel or gathering stitches. Check out any tent dress or princess style originating form a yoke. Both were popular circa 1960s.
Empire-Pictured above, it ends just below the bust line. Skirt can be straight or full. Chic now are princess or bias cut.
Raised-Recent trend popularized by Esprit.




Natural Waistline-Pictured above. Trendy once more, it seems like decades since we’ve seen so much of the natural waist. It is however one of fashion’s best-kept secrets. While not for everyone, it works for most body types and creates a great symmetry and overall picture of you.

Dropped-Pictured opposite, a dropped waist falls about 2-4 inches below the waist. Particularly flattering to most figure types because it elongates the torso
Asymmetrical-Falls at a diagonal. It can be either a fitted or relaxed bodice.
Basque-Falls into a point about 4-5 inches below the waist. Particularly flattering to full-figured and pear-shapes when it sits atop a full gathered skirt.
U-Most flattering U-shapes are over bodices that fall over an A-line skirt.
Princess Seams-No horizontal waist seam here. The vertical seams originate from armhole or shoulder and run the length of the dress.











Draped-Pictured at right, gathers or draping take the place of darts. Can take the shape of being loose or fitted.






Seamless-Pictured below, bias cut evening gowns and slip dresses have no seams defining waist. Usually snug fitting. As I’ve said before: you must be in top physical form to wear this waistline.

Photo: Ron Greystar/All Rights Reserved
Gowns: Amy-Jo Tatum Bridal Couture
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HEAD CHIC OF THE WEEK


From off beat to Betty Boop and Doris Duke, Boring Sidney's Etsy Store is a like walking into a shrine to head wear. Or is that a time tunnel? Definitely the candy store of head fashion for any aficionado of Elsa Scaparelli and golden Hollywood. According to her Etsy profile, Belle says it was in the theatre that she learned the art of Millinery. It is with a love for the bizarre and quirky, a solid sense of humor, and a driving need to create, that she started Boring Sidney/Belle Millinery 10 years ago.




Here's how Boring Sidney describes the above concoction Doxie Moxie:
"I can't remember when I have been so completely enamoured with a luscious concoction of tulle, netting and ribbons! It just transports me to a time of glamour, romance, and beauty. A better time when women wanted to be feminine and lovely, and just had to have the perfect hat.This reproduction of a 1940's Doll Hat consists of many tightly gathered layers of tulle & netting attached to a small black wool base. The hat is held on with an wool covered wire that encircles the head. Then we have several yards of black satin ribbon draped elegantly to finish it off.This hat is very stable, lightweight, and comfortable to wear."



Betty Grable Gets Married. Yes, that's the actual name of the hat this designer hand made for a client's wedding. Here's how she describes it, "1940s inspired Tilt Hat, hand constructed of buckram covered with ivory and champagne fabric. There are several bias ruffles, and a large bow gracing the back. Around the center top is a small petersham ribbon that has been hand beaded in clear and champagne swarovski crystals.There is a detachable birdcage veil.The small brim is wired and bendable if you want a different shape1940s inspired Tilt Hat, hand constructed of buckram covered with ivory and champagne fabric. There are several bias ruffles, and a large bow gracing the back. Around the center top is a small petersham ribbon that has been hand beaded in clear and champagne swarovski crystals.There is a detachable birdcage veil.The small brim is wired and bendable if you want a different shape"





Deliciously Deco White Wedding! White and ivory fascinator is made with the highest quality components. The large black flower is velvet and chiffon, behind it is an array of black feathers. There are imported emu feathers, hand curled (by me) goose biots, and hand striped(also by me) coque feathers.The overall effect is just so lovely, glamorous, and simply delicious. It is definitely an attention grabbing piece, but it is also so wearable. It would be drop dead gorgeous for your wedding or formal occasion.White and ivory fascinator is made with the highest quality components. The large black flower is velvet and chiffon, behind it is an array of black feathers. There are imported emu feathers, hand curled (by me) goose biots, and hand striped(also by me) coque feathers.The overall effect is just so lovely, glamorous, and simply delicious. It is definitely an attention grabbing piece, but it is also so wearable. It would be drop dead gorgeous for your wedding or formal occasion.

A whole array of hats and headpieces can be found on Boring Sidney's Etsy Store. Custom orders are welcome. Enjoy the site--it is fabulous. http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=5007565




From off beat to Betty Boop and Doris Duke, Boring Sidney's Etsy Store is a like walking into a shrine to head wear. Or is that a time tunnel? Definitely the candy store of head fashion for any aficionado of Elsa Scaparelli and golden Hollywood. According to her Etsy profile, Belle says it was in the theatre that she learned the art of Millinery. It is with a love for the bizarre and quirky, a solid sense of humor, and a driving need to create, that she started Boring Sidney/Belle Millinery 10 years ago.




Here's how Boring Sidney describes the above concoction Doxie Moxie:
"I can't remember when I have been so completely enamoured with a luscious concoction of tulle, netting and ribbons! It just transports me to a time of glamour, romance, and beauty. A better time when women wanted to be feminine and lovely, and just had to have the perfect hat.This reproduction of a 1940's Doll Hat consists of many tightly gathered layers of tulle & netting attached to a small black wool base. The hat is held on with an wool covered wire that encircles the head. Then we have several yards of black satin ribbon draped elegantly to finish it off.This hat is very stable, lightweight, and comfortable to wear."



Betty Grable Gets Married. Yes, that's the actual name of the hat this designer hand made for a client's wedding. Here's how she describes it, "1940s inspired Tilt Hat, hand constructed of buckram covered with ivory and champagne fabric. There are several bias ruffles, and a large bow gracing the back. Around the center top is a small petersham ribbon that has been hand beaded in clear and champagne swarovski crystals.There is a detachable birdcage veil.The small brim is wired and bendable if you want a different shape1940s inspired Tilt Hat, hand constructed of buckram covered with ivory and champagne fabric. There are several bias ruffles, and a large bow gracing the back. Around the center top is a small petersham ribbon that has been hand beaded in clear and champagne swarovski crystals.There is a detachable birdcage veil.The small brim is wired and bendable if you want a different shape"





Deliciously Deco White Wedding! White and ivory fascinator is made with the highest quality components. The large black flower is velvet and chiffon, behind it is an array of black feathers. There are imported emu feathers, hand curled (by me) goose biots, and hand striped(also by me) coque feathers.The overall effect is just so lovely, glamorous, and simply delicious. It is definitely an attention grabbing piece, but it is also so wearable. It would be drop dead gorgeous for your wedding or formal occasion.White and ivory fascinator is made with the highest quality components. The large black flower is velvet and chiffon, behind it is an array of black feathers. There are imported emu feathers, hand curled (by me) goose biots, and hand striped(also by me) coque feathers.The overall effect is just so lovely, glamorous, and simply delicious. It is definitely an attention grabbing piece, but it is also so wearable. It would be drop dead gorgeous for your wedding or formal occasion.

A whole array of hats and headpieces can be found on Boring Sidney's Etsy Store. Custom orders are welcome. Enjoy the site--it is fabulous. http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=5007565



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TOUCHES OF LACE

Photo: ejones photography/All Rights Reserved
Above:: Chantilly lace bodice and organza shawl with border
Right: Chantilly lace motif
Is there anything more simpatico with bridal wear than lace? Some brides go with just a touch of it on their wedding day, others go all out in allover lace gowns intricately beaded.
The history of lace making is an entire book or docudrama in itself and the art of making it goes back in time further than some fabric weaving. Knotting techniques actually trace back to basket making. As lace making evolved into an art form, so did demand for it.

Like fabric has a weave, lace has different patterns. Here are a few of the most common:

Alencon-Floral patterns on mesh or net background outlined in cording. Has a three-dimensional look.

Chantilly-Floral or foliage designs on a net background. Generally has a scalloped edge.

Cluny-Crocheted lace in heavy cotton also known as Irish lace. Chic in the swinging 1960s for mini wedding dresses and granny gowns.

Eyelet-Actually a woven cotton with eyelet cutouts and embroidery.

Peau d'Ange-Delicate version of Chantilly lace made with a flossier yarn.

Schiffli-Embroidered design on a mesh or organza background. Typically has a scalloped border.

Venice-Heavy lace with raised designs. Usually a single motif with an open background.











Above Left: Allover Chantilly lace wedding dress.
Above Right: Dress detail. Chantilly lace with scalloped edge



Above: Peau d'Ange lace. A delicate version of Chantilly



Eyelet bodice detail: eyelets and embroidery






Full view of eyelet dress







Gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum
Photo: ejones photography/All Rights Reserved
Above:: Chantilly lace bodice and organza shawl with border
Right: Chantilly lace motif
Is there anything more simpatico with bridal wear than lace? Some brides go with just a touch of it on their wedding day, others go all out in allover lace gowns intricately beaded.
The history of lace making is an entire book or docudrama in itself and the art of making it goes back in time further than some fabric weaving. Knotting techniques actually trace back to basket making. As lace making evolved into an art form, so did demand for it.

Like fabric has a weave, lace has different patterns. Here are a few of the most common:

Alencon-Floral patterns on mesh or net background outlined in cording. Has a three-dimensional look.

Chantilly-Floral or foliage designs on a net background. Generally has a scalloped edge.

Cluny-Crocheted lace in heavy cotton also known as Irish lace. Chic in the swinging 1960s for mini wedding dresses and granny gowns.

Eyelet-Actually a woven cotton with eyelet cutouts and embroidery.

Peau d'Ange-Delicate version of Chantilly lace made with a flossier yarn.

Schiffli-Embroidered design on a mesh or organza background. Typically has a scalloped border.

Venice-Heavy lace with raised designs. Usually a single motif with an open background.











Above Left: Allover Chantilly lace wedding dress.
Above Right: Dress detail. Chantilly lace with scalloped edge



Above: Peau d'Ange lace. A delicate version of Chantilly



Eyelet bodice detail: eyelets and embroidery






Full view of eyelet dress







Gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum
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SHOE CHIC

Oeil Photography/All Rights Reserved
Comfort first but hey, what better occassion to show off your Jimmy Choos? Once upon a time etiquette dictated there was one type of shoe you could wear on your wedding day: closed toe pumps in white or ivory peau satin.
While closed toe satin is still elegant, so are these gold metallic mules and the white t-straps below. Both would pair up nicely with just about any silhouette.


While the styles pictured here are tres chic now, you can go beyond and be daring if you want. Have a pair of those pink vintage stilettos in the storeroom? Wear them. And if you want some kind of lace-up Roman sandals or fur boots go for them; think about how you are going to work them into your ensemble. There's always a way. Shoes can be one of the most creative aspects of pulling your look together . . .

All photos by Oeil Photography/All Rights Reserved
Oeil Photography/All Rights Reserved
Comfort first but hey, what better occassion to show off your Jimmy Choos? Once upon a time etiquette dictated there was one type of shoe you could wear on your wedding day: closed toe pumps in white or ivory peau satin.
While closed toe satin is still elegant, so are these gold metallic mules and the white t-straps below. Both would pair up nicely with just about any silhouette.


While the styles pictured here are tres chic now, you can go beyond and be daring if you want. Have a pair of those pink vintage stilettos in the storeroom? Wear them. And if you want some kind of lace-up Roman sandals or fur boots go for them; think about how you are going to work them into your ensemble. There's always a way. Shoes can be one of the most creative aspects of pulling your look together . . .

All photos by Oeil Photography/All Rights Reserved
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WHAT'S NEXT? FASHION 2008 AND BEYOND

Photo by Oeil Photography
Dress by Alley Cat

I have my crystal ball out today. I’ve learned nailing next season’s chic has more to do with experience (age) and looking back to the future. I was twelve when Jackie Kennedy became Jackie Kennedy Onassis. She wore a white mini dress, a bow in her hair and had a groom twice her age on her arm. In the era of Jackie O, I remember the string of young brides breaking tradition as norm. Mia Farrow wore a silk suit when she married Frank Sinatra and Bianca wore a very wide brimmed picture hat when she and Mick Jagger tied the knot. Fast forward forty years. Camilla Parker-Bowles married Prince Charles in a coat and dress ensemble while movie bride Carrie Bradshaw donned a strapless ball gown with an avian headpiece. Wow! So what’s next?

Informal Dresses Again- Just like the sixties, weddings are still big events yes, but the times they are a' changin'. Some couples are scaling down and scaling down can mean on the dress as well as food and entertainment. We’re going to see more of a trend toward casual weddings, with designers offering informal yet stylish dresses. Let’s say the all day mega bash is fine for some but not every couple wants or can afford what comes with that lengthy guest list. So, we’re likely to see shorter hemlines like the one pictured above in exquisite, luxe fabrics as well as those easier fabrics we’ve missed for so long like cotton, linen, eyelet and embroidered organdy. This will create a whole new niche for designers—to still work with some awesome fabrics, but a on a different level.


Photo by ejones photography/All rights reserved
Two piece and Interchangeables-The trend for interchangables is growing. We’ll definitely be seeing more of these ensembles like the one pictured above. Underneath a swathe of tulle skirt is a silk sheath. An interchangeable is a look that can go from ceremony to reception—coats over sheaths in exquisite fabrics like brocades and failles, hook on/off over skirts in tulle and organza that can go to ceremony with one look, reception another.

The Suit. No matter how simple or paired down a gown can get, some women just can’t get into wearing a dress even on their wedding day. For this reason the suit is destined to become a stylish alternative. Though suits haven’t quite taken off down the NY runways, hopefully designers will heed the call of the suit and send it into flight soon. Like the sheath, a classic suit is long and columnar only in two-pieces with a jacket and straight skirt. There are of course exceptions like the one pictured above. Skirt shapes can be flared like A-lines or take on full bell contours even under man-tailored jackets. Pantsuits are another option with pant legs varying from slim cigarette widths to wide culotte cuts. If you’re uneasy wearing a dress, by all means, consider a suit one of your choices.


Photo by Oeil Photography
Dress by Alley Cat

I have my crystal ball out today. I’ve learned nailing next season’s chic has more to do with experience (age) and looking back to the future. I was twelve when Jackie Kennedy became Jackie Kennedy Onassis. She wore a white mini dress, a bow in her hair and had a groom twice her age on her arm. In the era of Jackie O, I remember the string of young brides breaking tradition as norm. Mia Farrow wore a silk suit when she married Frank Sinatra and Bianca wore a very wide brimmed picture hat when she and Mick Jagger tied the knot. Fast forward forty years. Camilla Parker-Bowles married Prince Charles in a coat and dress ensemble while movie bride Carrie Bradshaw donned a strapless ball gown with an avian headpiece. Wow! So what’s next?

Informal Dresses Again- Just like the sixties, weddings are still big events yes, but the times they are a' changin'. Some couples are scaling down and scaling down can mean on the dress as well as food and entertainment. We’re going to see more of a trend toward casual weddings, with designers offering informal yet stylish dresses. Let’s say the all day mega bash is fine for some but not every couple wants or can afford what comes with that lengthy guest list. So, we’re likely to see shorter hemlines like the one pictured above in exquisite, luxe fabrics as well as those easier fabrics we’ve missed for so long like cotton, linen, eyelet and embroidered organdy. This will create a whole new niche for designers—to still work with some awesome fabrics, but a on a different level.


Photo by ejones photography/All rights reserved
Two piece and Interchangeables-The trend for interchangables is growing. We’ll definitely be seeing more of these ensembles like the one pictured above. Underneath a swathe of tulle skirt is a silk sheath. An interchangeable is a look that can go from ceremony to reception—coats over sheaths in exquisite fabrics like brocades and failles, hook on/off over skirts in tulle and organza that can go to ceremony with one look, reception another.

The Suit. No matter how simple or paired down a gown can get, some women just can’t get into wearing a dress even on their wedding day. For this reason the suit is destined to become a stylish alternative. Though suits haven’t quite taken off down the NY runways, hopefully designers will heed the call of the suit and send it into flight soon. Like the sheath, a classic suit is long and columnar only in two-pieces with a jacket and straight skirt. There are of course exceptions like the one pictured above. Skirt shapes can be flared like A-lines or take on full bell contours even under man-tailored jackets. Pantsuits are another option with pant legs varying from slim cigarette widths to wide culotte cuts. If you’re uneasy wearing a dress, by all means, consider a suit one of your choices.


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SHOPPING 102: BEYOND THE SALON


Want an edgier look than what you’re finding in the salons? Want to go western or sport some other look like a to-the-floor suit you can’t get going the traditional route? Or maybe you do want that traditional look but need to look for it at a better price. Going beyond the salon is a great option then.

DEPARTMENT STORES AND SPECIALTY BOUTIQUES

Even though boutiques don’t necessarily carry bridal, the extraordinary dresses they do have can sometimes be special ordered in white or ivory. In the 1960s, boutiques like Paraphernalia in New York gained popularity by offering one-of-a-kind clothing with an edge and since then have become the best fashion labs for designers as well as clients. Think about this: Almost any white dress has potential to be a wedding dress as long as it works with your accessories, fits within the scene and theme of your wedding and you absolutely love it. Also, if you’re not into wearing white on your wedding day, boutiques and department stores might be your best option. Some stores work closely with up and coming specialty designers. With a little imagination and the help of professionals, you might be able to put some stunning looks together.
Also a great option if you don’t want to wait 4-6 months for your gown.

SECOND TIME AROUND BRIDAL SHOPS
Does the word ‘consignment’ scare you? Conjure images of Goodwill cast-offs in a store run by darling little old ladies? Walk in any bridal consignment shop these days and you’ll feel more like you’re in a high-end designer salon. With catchy names like Twice Bridal and One More Time, these shops offer some elegant, gently worn gowns in better shape than your average designer sample. In fact, the proprietors of these places can get real persnickety about what they take in—some only accepting top designer names like Vera Wang and Reem Acra. In addition, once gowns are accepted they’re cleaned and pressed to look new before they ever go on display. And think about it. They’ve only been worn once, isn’t that practically new?
Most inventory is ‘once-worn’ while the rest could be manufacturer over runs, designer samples bought at market or salon clearances. Additionally, every so often you’ll find that certain gown some bride ordered and for whatever reason, never wore.
If you’re price conscious this is the place to shop. Gowns that retailed last season for $3000-4000 are typically half off but sometimes can go for as little as $500-600.
More good news. You’re going to get very personalized assistance—the same as in a full service bridal salon. Though there will be re-altering involved, you won’t have to wait 4-6 months for your gown. Bear in mind once-worn gowns have already been pre-fit and altered to someone else’s body. Just make sure they’re once-worn; an over altered dress that’s been on more than one body could lose its original shape after a while. Ask how many and what kind of alterations the gown you want has had. Typically, if it’s gone through more than two brides, forget it. In addition to alterations your shop may offer customizing services (for a fee). Shops realize with previously-worn gowns, there’s a kind of possessive energy the new purchaser wants to create to make the gown her own. Therefore some shops focus on customizing.
FYI: Naturally bridal consignment shops don’t stock set sizes like salons do. Small and larger brides might have to work closely with staff and keep a lookout locating a gown in their size.

BRIDAL DISCOUNT OUTLETS
These are places like David's Bridal (the biggest) that offer everything for the bride, MOBs, flower girls, maids, even prom-goers. They are able to bring the prices down to rock bottom because of mass buying power. The looks you'll find though are pretty generic. There's nothing wrong with the dresses but then again, there usually isn't anything special about them either. Go to http://www.davidsbridal.com/ and you'll see what I mean.

VINTAGE CLOTHING STORES
Most Vintage clothing stores stock actual gowns from by-gone eras as well as ‘retro-inspired’ selections that are brand new. The bride in love with a particular era of clothing usually checks vintage clothing stores first. Not all brides opt for an actual gown that survived her favorite era though. Some choose a newer style reflecting the period instead. Why? Because that authentic 1925 chemise may be so delicate, without proper restoration it could literally fall apart. Think of gowns belonging to the ages like you would certain antiques: some so precious to be considered museum quality. Depending on restoration, the rule of thumb is, the older the gown the less they should be worn. If you are set on wearing that 1910 dress find a specialist in restoration who can advise. Also know your1910 dress can be an expensive but wise investment. For instance, if you invest in an original 50s-60s style, you’ll pay a lot less than the 1880s-1913 originals that, if intact, could be the equivalent to some down payments on a house.

THRIFT SHOPS AND FLEA MARKETS

Here’s where you’ll finally find those darling little old ladies. And they are charming. Especially if you’re a bride. Chances are, if you’ve gone this route to unearth real finds before, you already know your way around and what you’re doing, hopefully with the same eye that serious antique dealers and clothing collectors scout these markets often and with great skill. However, rummaging through flea markets and thrift stores takes a certain kind of bride—the kind who believes in recycling even on her wedding day; the kind that doesn’t give a damn whether she’s wearing hand-me-downs. If this is you, you’re a rarity. And yes, you’re likely to spend hours and days sorting through racks of Four Weddings and A Funeral cast-offs before you uncover that rare 1963 Pricilla of Boston original.


PRIVATE DESIGNERS

Go custom. This way you can get exactly what you want custom made to your measurements and your dress will be like no other in the world. Most custom designers can be found online but the best way to find one is to know a bride who had a custom designed gown you like. To read more about the custom designed gown go to: http://www.weddinggazette.com/content/002513.shtml


LINKS TO SOME OF MY FAVORITE ALTERNATIVES TO SALON SHOPPING

ENCORE BRIDAL-New and nearly new couture in the LA area. One of the best bridal blogs on the net is connected to this site.http://encorebridal.com/

SHADOWS-Vintage clothing and jewelry. A Northern California landmark. Clued up owners have been collecting vintage for years. They have some beautiful turn of the century pieces on display in the store.http://www.shadowsbridal.com/

GEORGIOU-One of the best places for shopping for suits and dresses. http://www.georgioustore.com/dresses3.htm

AMY-JO TATUM BRIDAL COUTURE-My website. I do custom and love it. www.amyjotatum.com

Want an edgier look than what you’re finding in the salons? Want to go western or sport some other look like a to-the-floor suit you can’t get going the traditional route? Or maybe you do want that traditional look but need to look for it at a better price. Going beyond the salon is a great option then.

DEPARTMENT STORES AND SPECIALTY BOUTIQUES

Even though boutiques don’t necessarily carry bridal, the extraordinary dresses they do have can sometimes be special ordered in white or ivory. In the 1960s, boutiques like Paraphernalia in New York gained popularity by offering one-of-a-kind clothing with an edge and since then have become the best fashion labs for designers as well as clients. Think about this: Almost any white dress has potential to be a wedding dress as long as it works with your accessories, fits within the scene and theme of your wedding and you absolutely love it. Also, if you’re not into wearing white on your wedding day, boutiques and department stores might be your best option. Some stores work closely with up and coming specialty designers. With a little imagination and the help of professionals, you might be able to put some stunning looks together.
Also a great option if you don’t want to wait 4-6 months for your gown.

SECOND TIME AROUND BRIDAL SHOPS
Does the word ‘consignment’ scare you? Conjure images of Goodwill cast-offs in a store run by darling little old ladies? Walk in any bridal consignment shop these days and you’ll feel more like you’re in a high-end designer salon. With catchy names like Twice Bridal and One More Time, these shops offer some elegant, gently worn gowns in better shape than your average designer sample. In fact, the proprietors of these places can get real persnickety about what they take in—some only accepting top designer names like Vera Wang and Reem Acra. In addition, once gowns are accepted they’re cleaned and pressed to look new before they ever go on display. And think about it. They’ve only been worn once, isn’t that practically new?
Most inventory is ‘once-worn’ while the rest could be manufacturer over runs, designer samples bought at market or salon clearances. Additionally, every so often you’ll find that certain gown some bride ordered and for whatever reason, never wore.
If you’re price conscious this is the place to shop. Gowns that retailed last season for $3000-4000 are typically half off but sometimes can go for as little as $500-600.
More good news. You’re going to get very personalized assistance—the same as in a full service bridal salon. Though there will be re-altering involved, you won’t have to wait 4-6 months for your gown. Bear in mind once-worn gowns have already been pre-fit and altered to someone else’s body. Just make sure they’re once-worn; an over altered dress that’s been on more than one body could lose its original shape after a while. Ask how many and what kind of alterations the gown you want has had. Typically, if it’s gone through more than two brides, forget it. In addition to alterations your shop may offer customizing services (for a fee). Shops realize with previously-worn gowns, there’s a kind of possessive energy the new purchaser wants to create to make the gown her own. Therefore some shops focus on customizing.
FYI: Naturally bridal consignment shops don’t stock set sizes like salons do. Small and larger brides might have to work closely with staff and keep a lookout locating a gown in their size.

BRIDAL DISCOUNT OUTLETS
These are places like David's Bridal (the biggest) that offer everything for the bride, MOBs, flower girls, maids, even prom-goers. They are able to bring the prices down to rock bottom because of mass buying power. The looks you'll find though are pretty generic. There's nothing wrong with the dresses but then again, there usually isn't anything special about them either. Go to http://www.davidsbridal.com/ and you'll see what I mean.

VINTAGE CLOTHING STORES
Most Vintage clothing stores stock actual gowns from by-gone eras as well as ‘retro-inspired’ selections that are brand new. The bride in love with a particular era of clothing usually checks vintage clothing stores first. Not all brides opt for an actual gown that survived her favorite era though. Some choose a newer style reflecting the period instead. Why? Because that authentic 1925 chemise may be so delicate, without proper restoration it could literally fall apart. Think of gowns belonging to the ages like you would certain antiques: some so precious to be considered museum quality. Depending on restoration, the rule of thumb is, the older the gown the less they should be worn. If you are set on wearing that 1910 dress find a specialist in restoration who can advise. Also know your1910 dress can be an expensive but wise investment. For instance, if you invest in an original 50s-60s style, you’ll pay a lot less than the 1880s-1913 originals that, if intact, could be the equivalent to some down payments on a house.

THRIFT SHOPS AND FLEA MARKETS

Here’s where you’ll finally find those darling little old ladies. And they are charming. Especially if you’re a bride. Chances are, if you’ve gone this route to unearth real finds before, you already know your way around and what you’re doing, hopefully with the same eye that serious antique dealers and clothing collectors scout these markets often and with great skill. However, rummaging through flea markets and thrift stores takes a certain kind of bride—the kind who believes in recycling even on her wedding day; the kind that doesn’t give a damn whether she’s wearing hand-me-downs. If this is you, you’re a rarity. And yes, you’re likely to spend hours and days sorting through racks of Four Weddings and A Funeral cast-offs before you uncover that rare 1963 Pricilla of Boston original.


PRIVATE DESIGNERS

Go custom. This way you can get exactly what you want custom made to your measurements and your dress will be like no other in the world. Most custom designers can be found online but the best way to find one is to know a bride who had a custom designed gown you like. To read more about the custom designed gown go to: http://www.weddinggazette.com/content/002513.shtml


LINKS TO SOME OF MY FAVORITE ALTERNATIVES TO SALON SHOPPING

ENCORE BRIDAL-New and nearly new couture in the LA area. One of the best bridal blogs on the net is connected to this site.http://encorebridal.com/

SHADOWS-Vintage clothing and jewelry. A Northern California landmark. Clued up owners have been collecting vintage for years. They have some beautiful turn of the century pieces on display in the store.http://www.shadowsbridal.com/

GEORGIOU-One of the best places for shopping for suits and dresses. http://www.georgioustore.com/dresses3.htm

AMY-JO TATUM BRIDAL COUTURE-My website. I do custom and love it. www.amyjotatum.com
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BLING!


More this week on accessories and amping up your glamour. Last night I ran accross this sweet little necklace on Etsy. Even sweeter is the description by designer, Kara at Coryell Design. How often can you read a product description that sounds like poetry? At Etsy all things creative are possible it seems. She handmade this piece above herself out of 100 freshwater pearls. While I can see this beautiful necklace paired up with just about any gown, a Jean Harlow body-hugging silhouette trumps them all.
Coryell has more. Start with her pearl and sterling silver earrings first. Go to http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=11116536

More this week on accessories and amping up your glamour. Last night I ran accross this sweet little necklace on Etsy. Even sweeter is the description by designer, Kara at Coryell Design. How often can you read a product description that sounds like poetry? At Etsy all things creative are possible it seems. She handmade this piece above herself out of 100 freshwater pearls. While I can see this beautiful necklace paired up with just about any gown, a Jean Harlow body-hugging silhouette trumps them all.
Coryell has more. Start with her pearl and sterling silver earrings first. Go to http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=11116536
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BRIDE MAIL: THE PETITE BRIDE



BrideMail@Bridechic.com
I'm 5' and very small boned. Most gowns I've tried on are for women that are 5'6. This means whenever I get in front of the mirror I'm swimming in the dress. Almost any sleeve, belt, print or lace looks magnified on me. What are my options?
One of the most important things for the vertically challenged to remember is scale. If you're petite and in shape, you can wear just about any gown as long as you scale down to the right proportion. Also thinking vertically (up, up, up) it will be easier to figure out which treatments suit you best. For instance, choose a bodice and neckline that draw the eye up to your decolletage. Here's more to consider.
GO FOR
*A gown with a panel or seam(s) running up the front. The unbroken lines give you height.
*Empire waists like the one at left are one of your best options considering you go floor length. You want to keep that vertical line going.
*A V or U neckline will give the impression of a longer neck.
*A mermaid. If you're slim and petite consider this style. It's fitted like an evening gown up top and has all the bounce and swirl of a ball gown below.
*An A-line like the one pictured below. Think of it as your very own scaled down version of a ballgown.
*Sheath and evening gown silhouettes like the one below. Long and columnar, they will flatter you.






*Choose length over volume in your skirt.
*Sleeves that are long and straight like the ones opposite.
*Best proportion is a floor length gown with a veil or train of the same length.
*If you are wearing a gown with a train and/or veil, keep the length just brushing the ground.
PASS UP:
*Any ball gown. The volume in the skirts will consume you.
*Heavy, elaborate fabrics like brocade or any print or design that is large.
*Wide belts, sashes and cummerbunds interrupt the vertical lines you want to create. If you do wear a sash or belt go thin (1-1 ½ inches) and as close to the shade of your gown as you can get.
*Any design with big puffy sleeves or shoulder pads.
*Any train or veil longer than a sweep.


Gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum


BrideMail@Bridechic.com
I'm 5' and very small boned. Most gowns I've tried on are for women that are 5'6. This means whenever I get in front of the mirror I'm swimming in the dress. Almost any sleeve, belt, print or lace looks magnified on me. What are my options?
One of the most important things for the vertically challenged to remember is scale. If you're petite and in shape, you can wear just about any gown as long as you scale down to the right proportion. Also thinking vertically (up, up, up) it will be easier to figure out which treatments suit you best. For instance, choose a bodice and neckline that draw the eye up to your decolletage. Here's more to consider.
GO FOR
*A gown with a panel or seam(s) running up the front. The unbroken lines give you height.
*Empire waists like the one at left are one of your best options considering you go floor length. You want to keep that vertical line going.
*A V or U neckline will give the impression of a longer neck.
*A mermaid. If you're slim and petite consider this style. It's fitted like an evening gown up top and has all the bounce and swirl of a ball gown below.
*An A-line like the one pictured below. Think of it as your very own scaled down version of a ballgown.
*Sheath and evening gown silhouettes like the one below. Long and columnar, they will flatter you.






*Choose length over volume in your skirt.
*Sleeves that are long and straight like the ones opposite.
*Best proportion is a floor length gown with a veil or train of the same length.
*If you are wearing a gown with a train and/or veil, keep the length just brushing the ground.
PASS UP:
*Any ball gown. The volume in the skirts will consume you.
*Heavy, elaborate fabrics like brocade or any print or design that is large.
*Wide belts, sashes and cummerbunds interrupt the vertical lines you want to create. If you do wear a sash or belt go thin (1-1 ½ inches) and as close to the shade of your gown as you can get.
*Any design with big puffy sleeves or shoulder pads.
*Any train or veil longer than a sweep.


Gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum
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411 ON BODICES

Photo by Ron Greystar/All Rights Reserved
The bodice is the focal point, the epicenter of your gown and reflects the heart of its overall style. Which bodice you choose will determine whether or not your gown has sleeves, a collar, high or low neckline, lace overlays, etc. Proper fit of the bodice is especially crucial and the place the most exact measurements need to be taken. Because a bodice is either darted or seamed, it typically has the most shaped and sculpted seams of any other piece on your gown. Also it is the center from which most other components are attached and take form—the place your gown finally goes from a flat to a three dimensional piece of fabric sculpture. While a bodice may look pretty straight-forward from the outside, like the skirt, it may have a complex inner life of linings, facings, and shaping materials we never see but sense by the way the bodice holds it’s shape. For instance, the bodice on a typical wedding gown needs an underling to give it that sculpted form in addition to becoming a strong foundation with which to attach lace, trim or embroidery. Also, an underlining can hide casements within the bodice for boning, a material used to hold that strapless bodice up. We’ll discuss the understructure of your bodice as well as skirt in more detail later. Until then realize most bodices whether draped or closely fitted to your body, frequently have some kind of foundation of reinforcement beneath. Here are a few bodice treatments to consider.

Ruched-Left:Treatment of horizontal gathers stretched across the bodice front and back.



Photo by ejones photography/All Rights Reserved
Strapless-Typically looks like the one pictured at left. Has no sleeves and is held up with boning inside the bodice.



Overlay-A spread of lightweight fabric or lace laid over top the bodice like the one pictured left.





photo by Ron Greystar



























Draped-Pictured above, like the surplice, this treatment can be attached from the shoulders or neckline. Also supported by an under bodice.
Surplice-Pictured bottom left, two wraps of fabric criss-crossing over the bust line, usually attached and/or supported by an under bodice. Big 1930s glam look with Jean Harlow struttin’ across the screen in her white crepe satin..
Corset-Bodice or vest usually with visible boning running vertically up the front and back. Laces up through eyelets either in front or back. While I’ve seen a few that hint at modesty complete with miniature rosebuds and bows, typically the corset belongs to the venturesome bride. Yes, a bodice all done up like a corset does have that Moulin Rougesque look; makes busty and heavier brides look voluptuous, everyone else a Can-Can dancer.


All gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum
Photo by Ron Greystar/All Rights Reserved
The bodice is the focal point, the epicenter of your gown and reflects the heart of its overall style. Which bodice you choose will determine whether or not your gown has sleeves, a collar, high or low neckline, lace overlays, etc. Proper fit of the bodice is especially crucial and the place the most exact measurements need to be taken. Because a bodice is either darted or seamed, it typically has the most shaped and sculpted seams of any other piece on your gown. Also it is the center from which most other components are attached and take form—the place your gown finally goes from a flat to a three dimensional piece of fabric sculpture. While a bodice may look pretty straight-forward from the outside, like the skirt, it may have a complex inner life of linings, facings, and shaping materials we never see but sense by the way the bodice holds it’s shape. For instance, the bodice on a typical wedding gown needs an underling to give it that sculpted form in addition to becoming a strong foundation with which to attach lace, trim or embroidery. Also, an underlining can hide casements within the bodice for boning, a material used to hold that strapless bodice up. We’ll discuss the understructure of your bodice as well as skirt in more detail later. Until then realize most bodices whether draped or closely fitted to your body, frequently have some kind of foundation of reinforcement beneath. Here are a few bodice treatments to consider.

Ruched-Left:Treatment of horizontal gathers stretched across the bodice front and back.



Photo by ejones photography/All Rights Reserved
Strapless-Typically looks like the one pictured at left. Has no sleeves and is held up with boning inside the bodice.



Overlay-A spread of lightweight fabric or lace laid over top the bodice like the one pictured left.





photo by Ron Greystar



























Draped-Pictured above, like the surplice, this treatment can be attached from the shoulders or neckline. Also supported by an under bodice.
Surplice-Pictured bottom left, two wraps of fabric criss-crossing over the bust line, usually attached and/or supported by an under bodice. Big 1930s glam look with Jean Harlow struttin’ across the screen in her white crepe satin..
Corset-Bodice or vest usually with visible boning running vertically up the front and back. Laces up through eyelets either in front or back. While I’ve seen a few that hint at modesty complete with miniature rosebuds and bows, typically the corset belongs to the venturesome bride. Yes, a bodice all done up like a corset does have that Moulin Rougesque look; makes busty and heavier brides look voluptuous, everyone else a Can-Can dancer.


All gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum
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