A LITTLE THURSDAY SOMETHING . . .
BACK TO NATURE
Retro lines and a major border embroidered in bright tones add pizazz to the white dress bride. Photos of Clé Maraini.
Let's start with nature, that catalyst of a bucolic movement we're seeing in bridal wear, embracing all things living: Flowers, leaves and feathers are showing up with interesting applications whether printed, embroidered or applied.
Printed taffeta with floral and tulle skirt on the catwalk of Atelier Aimee Montenapoleone. Photos of Luke Tombolini for Showbit.
Rose pastel applied detail on a wide white line, supported by hoops. Fio Couture. Photos of Clé Maraini.
Baby pink and a flower in grace this taffeta gown by Valentini. Photos of Clé Maraini.
Voile printed in pastel colors and sprays of roses as decoration, from the parade of Atelier Aimee Montenapoleone. Photos of Luke Tombolini for Showbit.
Corolle printed and applied in detail on a classic pleated fabric, of Elisabeth B. Photos of Clé Maraini. Retro lines and a major border embroidered in bright tones add pizazz to the white dress bride. Photos of Clé Maraini.
Let's start with nature, that catalyst of a bucolic movement we're seeing in bridal wear, embracing all things living: Flowers, leaves and feathers are showing up with interesting applications whether printed, embroidered or applied.
Printed taffeta with floral and tulle skirt on the catwalk of Atelier Aimee Montenapoleone. Photos of Luke Tombolini for Showbit.Rose pastel applied detail on a wide white line, supported by hoops. Fio Couture. Photos of Clé Maraini.
Baby pink and a flower in grace this taffeta gown by Valentini. Photos of Clé Maraini.
Voile printed in pastel colors and sprays of roses as decoration, from the parade of Atelier Aimee Montenapoleone. Photos of Luke Tombolini for Showbit.
Corolle printed and applied in detail on a classic pleated fabric, of Elisabeth B. Photos of Clé Maraini.
BOUDOIR PINK
I adore this board ! I can't count the times that Naomi Goodman of Enchanted Dream Weddings and Affairs has led me down the path of inspiration with her medleys of color. Take her pink composition here, all the different shades say femme-fatale and little girl innocence at once.
I adore this board ! I can't count the times that Naomi Goodman of Enchanted Dream Weddings and Affairs has led me down the path of inspiration with her medleys of color. Take her pink composition here, all the different shades say femme-fatale and little girl innocence at once.
SLEEVES 2011
Ian Stuart
Will 2011 mark the return of the sleeve? We're seeing more even if they are slung over a strapless bodice via all those pretty lace shrugs. Besides looking beautiful, the right sleeves can add bodice appeal as well as keep your skirt or sloping shoulders in proportion. Although not foremost, keeping arms warm could be another option for wearing sleeves. Once upon a time etiquette dictated the length sleeve you could wear during winter months or time of day you got married. Fortunately these restrictions were lifted long ago. Nowadays, you can go for long sleeves in summer, short caps in winter if that’s your desire. Be realistic though. Just make sure you have a decent wrap or stole in New York for your February wedding (especially this year). As for long sleeves this July in Palm Springs, go for them. Ever since Vera Wang popularized the detachable sleeve that ties and unties from your gown’s bodice, brides still opt for them.
Danielle Cicero
Since Madmen, 3/4 Lengths are turning up allover the fashion arena. These sport tailored cuffs . . . tres chic.
Threadhead
Puffed sleeves say light and demure and are characteristic of Regency period costume . . .
Bridal Bliss Designs
For bridal long, tight sleeves are classic. These are romantic with a real edge thanks to the silhouette and styling . . .
SOURCE
Ruched and dainty little ruffles cup the shoulders.
Will 2011 mark the return of the sleeve? We're seeing more even if they are slung over a strapless bodice via all those pretty lace shrugs. Besides looking beautiful, the right sleeves can add bodice appeal as well as keep your skirt or sloping shoulders in proportion. Although not foremost, keeping arms warm could be another option for wearing sleeves. Once upon a time etiquette dictated the length sleeve you could wear during winter months or time of day you got married. Fortunately these restrictions were lifted long ago. Nowadays, you can go for long sleeves in summer, short caps in winter if that’s your desire. Be realistic though. Just make sure you have a decent wrap or stole in New York for your February wedding (especially this year). As for long sleeves this July in Palm Springs, go for them. Ever since Vera Wang popularized the detachable sleeve that ties and unties from your gown’s bodice, brides still opt for them.
Since Madmen, 3/4 Lengths are turning up allover the fashion arena. These sport tailored cuffs . . . tres chic.
Puffed sleeves say light and demure and are characteristic of Regency period costume . . .
For bridal long, tight sleeves are classic. These are romantic with a real edge thanks to the silhouette and styling . . .
Ruched and dainty little ruffles cup the shoulders.
Like a reverse negative, here's Moticia Adams in white. Flowing sleeves are redolent of Goth and sometimes late-sixties hippie chic.
Ian Stuart
Will 2011 mark the return of the sleeve? We're seeing more even if they are slung over a strapless bodice via all those pretty lace shrugs. Besides looking beautiful, the right sleeves can add bodice appeal as well as keep your skirt or sloping shoulders in proportion. Although not foremost, keeping arms warm could be another option for wearing sleeves. Once upon a time etiquette dictated the length sleeve you could wear during winter months or time of day you got married. Fortunately these restrictions were lifted long ago. Nowadays, you can go for long sleeves in summer, short caps in winter if that’s your desire. Be realistic though. Just make sure you have a decent wrap or stole in New York for your February wedding (especially this year). As for long sleeves this July in Palm Springs, go for them. Ever since Vera Wang popularized the detachable sleeve that ties and unties from your gown’s bodice, brides still opt for them.
Danielle Cicero
Since Madmen, 3/4 Lengths are turning up allover the fashion arena. These sport tailored cuffs . . . tres chic.
Threadhead
Puffed sleeves say light and demure and are characteristic of Regency period costume . . .
Bridal Bliss Designs
For bridal long, tight sleeves are classic. These are romantic with a real edge thanks to the silhouette and styling . . .
SOURCE
Ruched and dainty little ruffles cup the shoulders.
Will 2011 mark the return of the sleeve? We're seeing more even if they are slung over a strapless bodice via all those pretty lace shrugs. Besides looking beautiful, the right sleeves can add bodice appeal as well as keep your skirt or sloping shoulders in proportion. Although not foremost, keeping arms warm could be another option for wearing sleeves. Once upon a time etiquette dictated the length sleeve you could wear during winter months or time of day you got married. Fortunately these restrictions were lifted long ago. Nowadays, you can go for long sleeves in summer, short caps in winter if that’s your desire. Be realistic though. Just make sure you have a decent wrap or stole in New York for your February wedding (especially this year). As for long sleeves this July in Palm Springs, go for them. Ever since Vera Wang popularized the detachable sleeve that ties and unties from your gown’s bodice, brides still opt for them.
Since Madmen, 3/4 Lengths are turning up allover the fashion arena. These sport tailored cuffs . . . tres chic.
Puffed sleeves say light and demure and are characteristic of Regency period costume . . .
For bridal long, tight sleeves are classic. These are romantic with a real edge thanks to the silhouette and styling . . .
Ruched and dainty little ruffles cup the shoulders.
Like a reverse negative, here's Moticia Adams in white. Flowing sleeves are redolent of Goth and sometimes late-sixties hippie chic.
GOLDEN DOLL
This is a gorgeous collection of rustic and gold tones brought to us by Sarah Hamilton of The Green Dandelion Blog. A floral designer, her blog is all about creative design in floral art and keeping the environment green. In her own words, "We do wedding and event floral design that is organically inspired and a little off centered . . . ."
This is a gorgeous collection of rustic and gold tones brought to us by Sarah Hamilton of The Green Dandelion Blog. A floral designer, her blog is all about creative design in floral art and keeping the environment green. In her own words, "We do wedding and event floral design that is organically inspired and a little off centered . . . ."
BEST TRESSED IN SAN FRANCISCO
Aura O'Brien Photography
Aura O'Brien Photography
I was glad to see a couple of my fav shooters wandering about the festivities capturing the whole thing in pictures, Aura O’Brien doing photography and Rainier Maninding, his up close and personal style photos and video.
Aura O'Brien
Aura O'Brien
If you're local to the San Francisco Bay Area, Kao Vey Saephanh of Jon Vey Salon has specialized services for bridal hairstyling (including bridesmaids). With an incredible range from classic and elegant looks to sultry siren hair, his finished styling always comes off original. If you visit the 660 Market Street location, not only are hairstyling services available, there's a whole package for brides including make up and nails. Can't make the trek in on your wedding day? Good news! JonVey offers on site services as well and will come to you. Check out the link . . .
I was glad to see a couple of my fav shooters wandering about the festivities capturing the whole thing in pictures, Aura O’Brien doing photography and Rainier Maninding, his up close and personal style photos and video.
Aura O'Brien
 |
| Above: Justin Jamison Below: Alyssa Nicole |
Aura O'Brien
If you're local to the San Francisco Bay Area, Kao Vey Saephanh of Jon Vey Salon has specialized services for bridal hairstyling (including bridesmaids). With an incredible range from classic and elegant looks to sultry siren hair, his finished styling always comes off original. If you visit the 660 Market Street location, not only are hairstyling services available, there's a whole package for brides including make up and nails. Can't make the trek in on your wedding day? Good news! JonVey offers on site services as well and will come to you. Check out the link . . .
Aura O'Brien Photography
Aura O'Brien Photography
I was glad to see a couple of my fav shooters wandering about the festivities capturing the whole thing in pictures, Aura O’Brien doing photography and Rainier Maninding, his up close and personal style photos and video.
Aura O'Brien
Aura O'Brien
If you're local to the San Francisco Bay Area, Kao Vey Saephanh of Jon Vey Salon has specialized services for bridal hairstyling (including bridesmaids). With an incredible range from classic and elegant looks to sultry siren hair, his finished styling always comes off original. If you visit the 660 Market Street location, not only are hairstyling services available, there's a whole package for brides including make up and nails. Can't make the trek in on your wedding day? Good news! JonVey offers on site services as well and will come to you. Check out the link . . .
I was glad to see a couple of my fav shooters wandering about the festivities capturing the whole thing in pictures, Aura O’Brien doing photography and Rainier Maninding, his up close and personal style photos and video.
Aura O'Brien
|
| Above: Justin Jamison Below: Alyssa Nicole |
Aura O'Brien
If you're local to the San Francisco Bay Area, Kao Vey Saephanh of Jon Vey Salon has specialized services for bridal hairstyling (including bridesmaids). With an incredible range from classic and elegant looks to sultry siren hair, his finished styling always comes off original. If you visit the 660 Market Street location, not only are hairstyling services available, there's a whole package for brides including make up and nails. Can't make the trek in on your wedding day? Good news! JonVey offers on site services as well and will come to you. Check out the link . . .
MOVIE AND TV INSPIRED . . .
What woman doesn't want to march down the aisle solo and spotlit on her wedding day? I always thought double weddings were a wee bit unrealistic unless there was a war on and you had to double up with someone else for your nups because any second you could be blown to bits. In this glitzy movie, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, nothing is realistic. In fact the plot gets flimsier as the costumes and choreography only get better. Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell here are dressed to the nines, as they march down the aisle in unison singing, 'We're Just Two Little Girls From Little Rock'. Watching this technocolor flick is worth the wait to the end just to glimpse these lace frocks with nipped waists, so charachteristic of their day . . .
What woman doesn't want to march down the aisle solo and spotlit on her wedding day? I always thought double weddings were a wee bit unrealistic unless there was a war on and you had to double up with someone else for your nups because any second you could be blown to bits. In this glitzy movie, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, nothing is realistic. In fact the plot gets flimsier as the costumes and choreography only get better. Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell here are dressed to the nines, as they march down the aisle in unison singing, 'We're Just Two Little Girls From Little Rock'. Watching this technocolor flick is worth the wait to the end just to glimpse these lace frocks with nipped waists, so charachteristic of their day . . .
THE SHIRT DRESS
JUST LISTED ON ETSY
White tulle double layer waltz-style veil edged both layers in satin ribbon. See more images . . .
Makeup by Necia Whitmore
Hair by Kao Vey SaephanhWhite tulle double layer waltz-style veil edged both layers in satin ribbon. See more images . . .
Makeup by Necia Whitmore
Hair by Kao Vey Saephanh
INSIDE STORIES . . .
The thing that makes a wedding gown so special is attention to detail inside as well as out. The Pnina Tornai gown above could pass for a piece of soft sculpture. A wedding gown well made is indeed a work of art. While a bodice and skirt may look pretty straight-forward from the outside, there's a complex life of inner linings, facings, crinolines, slips and shaping materials we never see but sense by the way the gown holds it’s shape. For instance, the bodice on a typical wedding gown needs an underling to give it that sculpted form in addition to becoming a strong foundation for lace, trim or embroidery. Also, an underlining can hide casements within the bodice for boning, a material used to hold that strapless bodice up. Realize most bodices whether draped or closely fitted to your body, frequently have some kind of foundation of reinforcement beneath. Contemporary bones are available in two forms- flat steel boning and spiral steel boning. Spiral is flat but thicker than flat boning because of the tips required on the ends. Flat boning bends in only one direction, while spiral steel boning bends easily in two directions. Spiral steel boning may be used on curved channeling or in light support areas. Both varieties are rigid lengthwise. Today, manufacturers use nylon or Rigiline bones. Steel is still optimal for 'real deal' corsetry and couture bodices. Nylon boning doesn't have the strength to hold up bodices the same way steel does. Nylon also is coarse and wrecks fabric over time. It is however, inexpensive so manufacturers do use it frequently.
Lela Rose
Above diagram shows the inside workings of a strapless bodice with a dropped waist. Lines shown designate boning points
The skirt is where the most critical movement takes place. It goes into motion once you put one foot in front of the other and make your way down the aisle. And because the skirt is an action piece, it has a certain ‘living quality’ once you start moving around in it. For the gown to to look and move properly the right linings and under structure are necessary.
Amalia Carrera
Your gown won't look finished off without proper lining and/or a slip. For snug sheath and evening gown silhouettes an appropriate lining will suffice. Anything beyond an A-line requires a slip that provides structure. So what is structure? The ball gown above is shaped with a very wide and voluminous slip similar to the photo beside it. Whether you're going for an A-line, princess or full bouffant shape, your slip should be worn separately from your gown (read: yes, as in a whole separate piece). Why? You don't want to add bulk to the waistline. Wedding gowns have enough heavy duty handiwork going on inside, why add more? I know most gowns come with built-ins, but do ask your salon when placing the order to have the designer send your slip as a separate component from the gown.
Right: A-line gown Casablanca Bridal
Below: A-line slip Sweetheart slips
Trains and bustles have allot going on inside as well. Most built in trains double as bustles and are filled inside with layered crinoline or organdy to give shape. Ever wonder how the back extension of a gown glides so beautifully? The secret is horsehair. If you're looking at one of the more voluminous gowns, notice whether or not the skirt (read: skirt, not the under slip) seems to have a structure that can stand on it’s own. It should. This has to do with how it is lined and hemmed. When you pick up the skirt—including the train—and look closely at the hemline, you’re likely to find a 3-6” wide band of horsehair. That’s the clear and meshy edging at the hemline that gives the bottom of the dress some flex as well as firmness. Notice how the skirt and train extension seem to hold that precision shape. It’s the horsehair that keeps the bottom of the skirt in shape and gliding when you move instead of swishing side to side (you’ll find this out once you try on the gown). Typically horsehair is sewn on the inside of the hem. Most designers are bringing the skirt lining over the horsehair edging completely, leaving as clean a finish inside as out.
Paloma Blanco
The bottom of this hem and train lays perfectly flat and will stay even once you begin walking. The secret is a hem reinforced with horsehair
Keep in mind you’ll be walking over surfaces of stones and uneven pavements that might trip you up or get caught up in the horsehair. With clean finishing work inside, when you lift your skirt to walk up stairs, the horsehair stays hidden and show your gown to be as beautifully finished inside as out.
Amalia Carrera
Your gown won't look finished off without proper lining and/or a slip. For snug sheath and evening gown silhouettes an appropriate lining will suffice. Anything beyond an A-line requires a slip that provides structure. So what is structure? The ball gown above is shaped with a very wide and voluminous slip similar to the photo beside it. Whether you're going for an A-line, princess or full bouffant shape, your slip should be worn separately from your gown (read: yes, as in a whole separate piece). Why? You don't want to add bulk to the waistline. Wedding gowns have enough heavy duty handiwork going on inside, why add more? I know most gowns come with built-ins, but do ask your salon when placing the order to have the designer send your slip as a separate component from the gown.
Right: A-line gown Casablanca Bridal
Below: A-line slip Sweetheart slips
Trains and bustles have allot going on inside as well. Most built in trains double as bustles and are filled inside with layered crinoline or organdy to give shape. Ever wonder how the back extension of a gown glides so beautifully? The secret is horsehair. If you're looking at one of the more voluminous gowns, notice whether or not the skirt (read: skirt, not the under slip) seems to have a structure that can stand on it’s own. It should. This has to do with how it is lined and hemmed. When you pick up the skirt—including the train—and look closely at the hemline, you’re likely to find a 3-6” wide band of horsehair. That’s the clear and meshy edging at the hemline that gives the bottom of the dress some flex as well as firmness. Notice how the skirt and train extension seem to hold that precision shape. It’s the horsehair that keeps the bottom of the skirt in shape and gliding when you move instead of swishing side to side (you’ll find this out once you try on the gown). Typically horsehair is sewn on the inside of the hem. Most designers are bringing the skirt lining over the horsehair edging completely, leaving as clean a finish inside as out.
Paloma BlancoThe bottom of this hem and train lays perfectly flat and will stay even once you begin walking. The secret is a hem reinforced with horsehair
Keep in mind you’ll be walking over surfaces of stones and uneven pavements that might trip you up or get caught up in the horsehair. With clean finishing work inside, when you lift your skirt to walk up stairs, the horsehair stays hidden and show your gown to be as beautifully finished inside as out.
The thing that makes a wedding gown so special is attention to detail inside as well as out. The Pnina Tornai gown above could pass for a piece of soft sculpture. A wedding gown well made is indeed a work of art. While a bodice and skirt may look pretty straight-forward from the outside, there's a complex life of inner linings, facings, crinolines, slips and shaping materials we never see but sense by the way the gown holds it’s shape. For instance, the bodice on a typical wedding gown needs an underling to give it that sculpted form in addition to becoming a strong foundation for lace, trim or embroidery. Also, an underlining can hide casements within the bodice for boning, a material used to hold that strapless bodice up. Realize most bodices whether draped or closely fitted to your body, frequently have some kind of foundation of reinforcement beneath. Contemporary bones are available in two forms- flat steel boning and spiral steel boning. Spiral is flat but thicker than flat boning because of the tips required on the ends. Flat boning bends in only one direction, while spiral steel boning bends easily in two directions. Spiral steel boning may be used on curved channeling or in light support areas. Both varieties are rigid lengthwise. Today, manufacturers use nylon or Rigiline bones. Steel is still optimal for 'real deal' corsetry and couture bodices. Nylon boning doesn't have the strength to hold up bodices the same way steel does. Nylon also is coarse and wrecks fabric over time. It is however, inexpensive so manufacturers do use it frequently.
Lela RoseAbove diagram shows the inside workings of a strapless bodice with a dropped waist. Lines shown designate boning points
The skirt is where the most critical movement takes place. It goes into motion once you put one foot in front of the other and make your way down the aisle. And because the skirt is an action piece, it has a certain ‘living quality’ once you start moving around in it. For the gown to to look and move properly the right linings and under structure are necessary.
Amalia Carrera
Your gown won't look finished off without proper lining and/or a slip. For snug sheath and evening gown silhouettes an appropriate lining will suffice. Anything beyond an A-line requires a slip that provides structure. So what is structure? The ball gown above is shaped with a very wide and voluminous slip similar to the photo beside it. Whether you're going for an A-line, princess or full bouffant shape, your slip should be worn separately from your gown (read: yes, as in a whole separate piece). Why? You don't want to add bulk to the waistline. Wedding gowns have enough heavy duty handiwork going on inside, why add more? I know most gowns come with built-ins, but do ask your salon when placing the order to have the designer send your slip as a separate component from the gown.
Right: A-line gown Casablanca Bridal
Below: A-line slip Sweetheart slips
Trains and bustles have allot going on inside as well. Most built in trains double as bustles and are filled inside with layered crinoline or organdy to give shape. Ever wonder how the back extension of a gown glides so beautifully? The secret is horsehair. If you're looking at one of the more voluminous gowns, notice whether or not the skirt (read: skirt, not the under slip) seems to have a structure that can stand on it’s own. It should. This has to do with how it is lined and hemmed. When you pick up the skirt—including the train—and look closely at the hemline, you’re likely to find a 3-6” wide band of horsehair. That’s the clear and meshy edging at the hemline that gives the bottom of the dress some flex as well as firmness. Notice how the skirt and train extension seem to hold that precision shape. It’s the horsehair that keeps the bottom of the skirt in shape and gliding when you move instead of swishing side to side (you’ll find this out once you try on the gown). Typically horsehair is sewn on the inside of the hem. Most designers are bringing the skirt lining over the horsehair edging completely, leaving as clean a finish inside as out.
Paloma Blanco
The bottom of this hem and train lays perfectly flat and will stay even once you begin walking. The secret is a hem reinforced with horsehair
Keep in mind you’ll be walking over surfaces of stones and uneven pavements that might trip you up or get caught up in the horsehair. With clean finishing work inside, when you lift your skirt to walk up stairs, the horsehair stays hidden and show your gown to be as beautifully finished inside as out.
Amalia Carrera
Your gown won't look finished off without proper lining and/or a slip. For snug sheath and evening gown silhouettes an appropriate lining will suffice. Anything beyond an A-line requires a slip that provides structure. So what is structure? The ball gown above is shaped with a very wide and voluminous slip similar to the photo beside it. Whether you're going for an A-line, princess or full bouffant shape, your slip should be worn separately from your gown (read: yes, as in a whole separate piece). Why? You don't want to add bulk to the waistline. Wedding gowns have enough heavy duty handiwork going on inside, why add more? I know most gowns come with built-ins, but do ask your salon when placing the order to have the designer send your slip as a separate component from the gown.
Right: A-line gown Casablanca Bridal
Below: A-line slip Sweetheart slips
Trains and bustles have allot going on inside as well. Most built in trains double as bustles and are filled inside with layered crinoline or organdy to give shape. Ever wonder how the back extension of a gown glides so beautifully? The secret is horsehair. If you're looking at one of the more voluminous gowns, notice whether or not the skirt (read: skirt, not the under slip) seems to have a structure that can stand on it’s own. It should. This has to do with how it is lined and hemmed. When you pick up the skirt—including the train—and look closely at the hemline, you’re likely to find a 3-6” wide band of horsehair. That’s the clear and meshy edging at the hemline that gives the bottom of the dress some flex as well as firmness. Notice how the skirt and train extension seem to hold that precision shape. It’s the horsehair that keeps the bottom of the skirt in shape and gliding when you move instead of swishing side to side (you’ll find this out once you try on the gown). Typically horsehair is sewn on the inside of the hem. Most designers are bringing the skirt lining over the horsehair edging completely, leaving as clean a finish inside as out.
Paloma BlancoThe bottom of this hem and train lays perfectly flat and will stay even once you begin walking. The secret is a hem reinforced with horsehair
Keep in mind you’ll be walking over surfaces of stones and uneven pavements that might trip you up or get caught up in the horsehair. With clean finishing work inside, when you lift your skirt to walk up stairs, the horsehair stays hidden and show your gown to be as beautifully finished inside as out.
